Korea and the DMZ

Hi everyone, this blog entry is about a tragic part of history that continues to live on to this day… the division of North and South Korea.

While in Seoul, I convinced RL to take a half day and go to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) between North and South Korea. He did not have time for the full day tour, which would have taken us to the Joint Security Area (JSA). The JSA is the closest you can get to North Korea without being shot. I want to do that trip next time. Not sure, but I think if you are a South Korean you are not allowed to go to the JSA unless you have special permission.

Trip requirements:--You have to be a part of an official tour; otherwise you cannot get into the DMZ. There are dress restrictions: no open-back shoes, flip flops, etc. -- in case something happened and you have to run. You have to look nice, conservatively dressed in case the North Koreans decided to take any propaganda pictures. So, no tank tops, spaghetti straps, shorts or skirts above the knees are allowed. The South Koreans were pretty serious about that. You have to carry your passport and agree to behave as instructed throughout the tour by your guide. And finally, you sign an agreement absolving the UN and South Korea government of responsibility in case of any injuries due to “enemy action” while on the tour. Doesn’t it already sound scary??

From Seoul, our tour bus drove along a flat, straight highway named the Freedom Road. That takes about 45 minutes. (This means if you live in Seoul, the enemy is practically in your back yard.) The bus was halted at a military check point once we reached the Imjingang River. This is the end of the line if you are not apart of a tour. The bus was boarded by military from the UN and they examined everyone’s passport VERY closely. No one was turned away on our bus, thank goodness. We then crossed the bridge over the river, known as the Unification Bridge, and entered into the Civilian Limit Zone. Barbed wire lines the wide, deserted highway to keep people away from the land mines.

The Korean DMZ is often referred to as the most dangerous place on earth. It is really strange. On both sides of the 2 ½ mile wide, 155 mile long strip of land separating the countries you have troops, guard posts, tanks, gun emplacements, and missiles. You are honestly scared, who knows when it could all blow up? But on the other hand, the land within the strip is peaceful and tranquil. Human contact has been limited since 1950 and because of this, the most heavily armed border in the world has become one of Asia’s greatest nature preserves. Talk about irony.

Underground had its exciting moments, too. Four tunnels were found in the 1970's on evidence provided by a North Korean engineer who defected to the South. These tunnels were a part of a North Korean invasion strategy. We were allowed to tour the 3rd infiltration tunnel, which would have allowed 30,000 invading soldiers to pass through per hour into South Korea. WOW! The tunnel was dug by prisoners using dynamite and took about 6 years to construct. The tunnel walls were painted black so that they could say they were just mining for coal. Pretty lame excuse, don’t you think? In actuality, the tunnel walls are granite. If you live in North Korea, you are told that the South Koreans dug the tunnels.

Loaded back on the bus, we were next taken to Dorasan Station. In an act of "Field of Dreams" optimism, this modern, spacious train station has been constructed in preparation for the day that trains can run freely from Seoul in the South to Pyeongyang in the North. The platform signs already direct passengers to the "Track for Seoul/Pyeongyang". This huge, modern deserted building makes you feel like you are in a ghost town. You can see behind glass doors lines for customs and baggage checks. They even have a stamp on hand for passports. We had our passports stamped and also some postcards.

One other point of interest, which we could see in the distance on North Korean soil, is an industrial complex erected by South Korea that employs North Korean labor. It is expected that more than 300 South Korean factories will be operating within this special zone in the near future. South Korea even pays for the electricity. It is South Korea’s hope that this will lead to more cooperation between the two countries and eventually a more open border.

Some other interesting facts:
--The town of Tae Sung Dong, or “Freedom Village,” exists entirely within the DMZ. About 250 people live in this farming village, pay no taxes and earn an average of about $80,000 a year per person. Each resident must live there 240 days out of the year. Women can marry into the village but men cannot.

--A South Korean quick-reaction force is housed within the DMZ. Its record time for arriving at the JSA in full battle gear, about a mile away, is 42 seconds.

--Officers of the 8th Army U.N. Command Security Battalion are nicknamed “The Monks” for their work habits and isolation from other units.